Bosco Wine Grill

Location: BrisbaneCuisine: ItalianPrice: $

8 July

8 Austin Street Newstead QLD

full REVIEW

My first experience at Bosco Wine Grill didn’t quite hit the mark - but there were enough glimmers of potential to warrant a return visit before writing a review.

Now a firm favourite of the Newstead neighbourhood, Bosco opened in 2023 to a mixed chorus of opinions among my social circles and so was not initially high on the radar. Since then, a wave of glowing Instagram reviews last August/September stirred my curiosity and I found myself there one Sunday afternoon to see what the buzz was about.

The space is an industrial-chic converted warehouse that channels the vibes of Manhattan’s Meatpacking District, and I particularly appreciate the soaring ceilings and theatrics of an open kitchen.

Unfortunately, the food was largely disappointing. The oysters lacked freshness, the chicken liver parfait cannoli missed the distinct crispness promised by its form, and the creme catalana dessert arrived unset. That said, there were a couple of standouts: the much-loved mussels in cider cream lived up to their reputation, the S.Kidman F2 Wagyu Ribeye MB6+ was expertly grilled; and the service, led by the delightful Emmaleise, was warm and attentive.

My eturn visit a few months ago was deliberately planned for a quieter weeknight, with hopes of a better dining experience. I’m happy to report that the food thoroughly delivered this time around – helped, in part, by knowing what to order. The mussels were once again a highlight, the Westholme F1 Wagyu Ribeye MB3-4+ executed to perfection, and the triple cream gelato with strawberries divine.

The service, however, was the let down on this second visit. I was seated in a section managed by a seemingly new server who lacked familiarity with the menu. When asked about the marbling score of the Wagyu (a fair question for a $118 steak), two trips to the kitchen later produced a response read from a note that said ‘BMS 3-4+’. It felt surprisingly out of step for a restaurant that cooks a killer steak.

The ambience also suffered – not from anything within Bosco’s control, but from an especially lively group seated behind us that made conversation difficult. While we could have asked to move (there were quite a few spare tables), we opted to stay put and not cause any inconvenience.

On a side note, how much detail is too much – or too little - on a menu? Vague descriptions are a personal peeve because they oblige me to ask a string of questions that can:

1) potentially annoy my dining companions;

2) cut into our actual eating time if the server needs to check with the kitchen; and

3) make me feel unnecessarily high-maintenance.

It’s not about being pretentious—it’s about being informed. Is the steak big enough to share? Is it too fatty for our taste? For a pub steak I’d never think to ask about weight or marbling, but in fine casual dining territory these aren’t unreasonable questions.

A menu light on detail demands a well-versed front of house team. In the right hands, this can elevate the experience if a server is engaging and knows the dishes intimately. But when it falls short, as it did here, it leaves a less favourable impression.

Ironically on my way out, I was greeted warmly by Emmaleise, who remembered me from my prior visit. I couldn’t help but wonder if the evening would’ve played out quite differently had I been in her section (and sans a rowdy neighbouring table!).

Bosco has built a loyal following so this review may raise some eyebrows (much like my thoughts on the well-loved neighbouring restaurant once did) - but as always, I aim to share honest, balanced reflections to help set realistic expectations, especially for first-time diners.

To return to my original question: what determines whether you book in again? With Bosco I’ve now experienced two contrasting visits – but the improved food and friendly parting exchange left me optimistic. Perhaps third time’s the charm, where food, service and ambience will finally align… I’d like to believe they can.

Visit their website: Bosco Wine Grill